The beauty ideal is getting a makeover. Among the global population of nearly 8 billion, nearly two-thirds live in Asia and more than 2.7 billion consumers live in China and India combined. Meanwhile, the fastest-growing populations in the world are located in Africa, led by Niger where the rate of natural population growth is 3.8%, followed by São Tomé and Príncipe, and Angola. The US will become “minority white” by 2045. According to the US Census Report, whites will account for 49.7% of the population, followed by Hispanics, 24.6%; Black, 13.1%; Asian, 7.9%; multiracial, 3.8% and “other,” 0.9%.

At a recent Cosmetic Executive Women webinar, Ready to Beauty LLC Founder Corey Huggins reviewed the future of multicultural beauty which, he noted, was formerly known as ethnic beauty, and can be described as personal care, skin care, cosmetics and hair care marketed to those who have “multi-hued” tones.

“This group is large, growing and cannot be denied,” observed Huggins. “Of the 21 most populated counties in the US, 19 of them are multicultural and 50% of them are already two-thirds multicultural.”

Furthermore, 40% of Millennials are multicultural and of that group, 50% are Hispanic Latino, according to Huggins.

“Why is multicultural beauty important? Buying power! It’s all about the Benjamins,” he exclaimed. “Black and brown consumers are outpacing the white general market consumer in purchasing power and prior to COVID, those two groups were projected to have the greatest gains in total buying power by 2021.”

What They’re Buying

Citing a Packaged Facts study, Huggins noted that hair care, including wigs, hair pieces and hair extensions, accounts for 56% of total beauty spend. Makeup, including implements such as brushes, files and clippers, accounted for 36% of sales and skin care represented just 8% of sales.

“They’re all driven by specific requirements,” noted Huggins. “Their hair grows differently, their makeup needs are different because of foundations and shading, and therefore their skin care needs are different because of hyperpigmentation.”

In a recent Happi webinar, Dr. Seemal R. Desai MD noted that his skin of color patients are most concerned by skin dyschromia and its impact on their physical, emotional and social life. In fact, he described hyperpigmentation as the No. 1 aesthetic concern of Latin-type patients, while post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is the leading aesthetic concern of West Asian and African-type patients, according to Desai. In contrast, facial aging dyschromia is the leading aesthetic concern of East Asian-type patients. He noted that flawless skin tone is of utmost importance for Asian women, especially as they start aging.

Huggins went a step further, noting that multicultural beauty can be subdivided into two groups—Multicultural Specific and Multicultural Suited. The former involves physiological need-based, functional requirements whereas the latter is all about psychological emotional-wants.

“No other market can claim this, where it is so split so drastically between specific and suited,” said Huggins.

Who is this consumer? She spends an average of $75 a month on beauty, shops more online than offline, seeks and is oriented toward luxury and niche beauty products, and tends to buys products that she can sample.

Furthermore, she is highly-entrepreneurial. Because she’s not getting what she wants, she’s starting her own businesses across a variety of industries, explained Huggins.


Entrepreneurial Spirit

According to Guidant Financial’s Small Business Trend Report, 35% of businesses are owned by Black women and, in many cases, these entrepreneurs are truly on their own. Shut out by traditional investment institutions, black-owned beauty businesses have had a tough time raising capital. In fact, it’s been estimated that almost half of black-owned businesses will not survive the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.

But there is help and hope. For example, Ebony Crown is a new startup curating Black-owned hair and beauty businesses driven by the philosophy that money spent in the Black hair and beauty space should go back to Black-owned companies.

“Only 15% of the $2.5 billion dollars spent in the black hair and beauty market go to Black entrepreneurs,” said Onyekachi Amadi, founder and chief executive officer, Ebony Crown. “It doesn’t make sense that so much of our money is being given to companies that don’t invest back into our communities or have a workplace/company reflective of the demographic they cater to.”

Another group, Lift As We Climb, supports black-owned businesses and community organizations. Co-founded by Gabrielle Union, actress, producer and co-founder of hair care brand Flawless by Gabrielle Union, and celebrity hairstylist and business partner Larry Sims, Lift As We Climb highlights black-owned brands across its social channels and webpages to elevate visibility and opportunities for these entities. Consumers can learn more about each brand and purchase products from them through Gabrielle Union’s celebrity page on Amazon.com.

The initial group of Black-owned brands selected include Mented Cosmetics, a cosmetics line for all skin tones and pigments; Darlyng & Co, a baby and children’s brand offering personal care products; Honey Pot, a natural and plant-based feminine care system; and BLK and Bold, a specialty coffee and tea brand.

Just last month, Infinite Looks, Inc. announced seed financing with participation from Johnson & Johnson Innovation – JJDC, Inc. (JJDC) and Ignite Venture Studio. The funds will be used to scale the D2C consumer brand Sunday II Sunday, a luxury hair care product line of Infinite Looks, as well as to expand the product line offering.

With this investment, Infinite Looks plans to scale the reach and offerings of the Sunday II Sunday product line. Throughout the remainder of 2020 and beyond, Beasley also plans to focus on acquiring donations to propel non-profit organization Venture Noire to help and accelerate more Black-owned businesses in the market.

Earlier this spring, Qurate Retail Group—multiplatform retailer that includes QVC, HSN, Zulily, and several other brands— and the NRF Foundation launched the Small Business Spotlight with 20 small businesses across America that have been impacted by COVID-19. The current focus on Black-owned businesses is part of several initiatives announced by Qurate Retail Group to promote diversity, equity and inclusion.

“We’re proud to stand with the Black community by sharing the stories of these extraordinary businesses, including their innovation, their triumphs, the challenges they face, and their remarkable resilience,” said Mike George, president and CEO, Qurate Retail Inc. “In these important times, we want to be part of the solution and help build inclusive communities where all people are treated with equity.”

What She Wants

Huggins cited Nielsen research that 60% of women say it is important that products and brands are created specifically for women of color and do not market to women with lighter skin tones. Why?

• 50% said there are already enough brands that cater to women with lighter skin;
• 49% said too many brands abandon the needs of women of color once they find success; and
• 6% said they would abandon a brand created specifically for women of color if the company started offering products designed for all women.

“She wants to see herself,” concluded Huggins.

More brands than ever before are getting the message.

For example, after noticing the lack of Black-owned beauty supply stores, a modern beauty retailer for women of color was established by indie beauty pioneer Brittney Ogike who, along with her husband Ike, opened BeautyBeez, which is located in the heart of Southern California, and is billed as a “one-stop shop” for skin care, hair care and makeup at an accessible price point.

Also making waves in the marketplace right now is Glory Skincare. Founded by former Nike executive Alisia Ford, the online retailer was built on the belief that women of color should be at the forefront of every touchpoint in skin care and beauty. She has carried out this mission by allowing women access to a selection of skin care products—from beauty subscription boxes to moisturizers, masks, cleansers and more—tailored to the individual’s needs based on a skin care quiz curated by beauty experts. Products span from Black Girl Sunscreen to GlowRx Skincare.

Pooka Pure & Simple, a line of bath, body and lifestyle products, has been selected for Qurate Retail Group’s Small Business Spotlight. The brand’s’s story began appearing on QVC’s and HSN’s websites and social pages on August 12 and the company was highlighted on air on September  3 on QVC and HSN. Zulily is promoting the campaign on its website, email, and social. Outside of the retail exposure, the Pooka Pure & Simple team can also tap Qurate Retail Group team members for advice.

“We are so excited to be chosen for the Small Business Spotlight! QVC, HSN and Zulily are giving us an amazing opportunity to shine. We are so thankful to Qurate Retail Group and the NRF foundation for guiding and supporting black owned businesses, #BlackLivesMatter,” said Dawn Fitch, founder and president of Pooka Pure & Simple.

For Fall 2020, Nas formed a partnership with Pantone Color Institute for “Ultra Black By Nas,” a color inspired by the rap legend himself. The color name is also a play on Nas’ new single, “Ultra Black.” Produced by Hit-boy, “Ultra Black” is an anthemic, uplifting reminder of the unignorable contributions made by the Black community, according to Pantone. Nas also released special “Ultra Black by Nas” merchandise online; a portion of the proceeds will go to charity.

According to Pantone, a testament of the times, Ultra Black is a statement to being unapologetically Pro-Black. While the color black often connotes feelings of darkness, Nas reimagines the term to represent its richness, complexity and profound beauty. An electrifying phrase honoring the Black community as the life force of culture, the term extends beyond race, class, or creed. It is symbolic of the fortitude, power, legacy, and interconnectedness of all people worldwide. Just as black absorbs all light, Ultra Black represents the unification of all people, spotlighting Black joy and the promising future ahead, notes Pantone.

“We were thrilled to be able to partner with Nas on the creation of Ultra Black, a color symbolic of the powerful message he expresses in his new compelling anthemic statement, ‘Ultra Black’,” said Laurie Pressman, vice president of Pantone Color Institute. “In our highly visual world, color is one of the most powerful communication tools we can use to draw immediate attention and get our voices heard. Supporting ‘Ultra Black’ with this new color helps Nas share his message in a visually impactful way, one that will further ensure the global reach of his inspiring and uplifting message.”

This past month, Bumble and Bumble partnered with Christian Cowan for a very special NYFW SS21 collection co-designed in partnership with Lil Nas X, with hair lead by Evanie Frausto; assisted by Ivan Matsumoto, Bb. Midtown Stylist; wigs colored by Ricardo, Bb. Downtown Colorist. The collection dropped digitally on September 17 on NYFW.com and features prominent activists of racial injustice who have led communities through the BLM movement, alongside models who fight for change, and influencers in the art, music and fashion space. Cowan’s latest unveiling will also be available via FWRD.com, with 100% of all profits from sales going directly to campaign model Rachel Cargle’s non-profit, Loveland Foundation, to benefit the Black Trans community in Atlanta and beyond.

“The collection certainly pays homage to the 70s,” said Cowan. “At that time, there were venues that weren’t mainstream, and they were the only place that punk and queer communities were allowed to have their events—often in the same night, in the same room. So, you can imagine this fusion of punk-meets-queer—and we glued those worlds together with exaggerated punk hairstyles, doused in glitter and neon shades. The other half of the hair story is imagined through exaggerated versions of the models’ natural hair styles, infused with that punk aesthetic.”

“At face value, you see a lot of 70s punk-glamour, but the foundation is a lot deeper than that,” said Evanie Frausto, Bumble and Bumble hair lead. “We’re living through a historical movement, and people are no longer being silenced. They’re speaking up and being loud—and this hair is speaking the same language. So, there’s nothing subtle—it’s bold and loud and in your face; colorful and glittery with big, spikey moments. The vital part was to make sure each talent had their moment to shine and felt empowered in their own skin.”

Indies Drive Inclusivity

When it comes to color cosmetics, long-standing beauty brands continue to expand their foundation collections to match a wider span of skin tones.

At Maybelline New York, for example, Fit Me! Matte + Poreless Pouch is a medium coverage foundation for normal to oily skin that offers all-day wear and is available in 37 shades. This summer, Avon rolled out Avon Cashmere Complexion Longwear Foundation in 30 matte shades to suit a wide range of skin tones and undertones. The liquid foundation visibly blurs pores and lines with soft-focus and shine-absorbing qualities to help maintain a smooth matte finish.

Mass stalwart Covergirl also added new products to its recently launched Clean Fresh collection including Clean Fresh Hydrating Concealer. It is infused with coconut milk and aloe extracts and comes in 14 shades and is designed to blur imperfections and even discoloration. The applicator is intended for more targeted coverage and blending.

New for Fall, L’Oréal Paris True Match Eye Cream in a Concealer provides instant dark circle correction now with the care of an eye cream. Formulated with 0.5% pure hyaluronic acid, this formula is fragrance free, paraben free and non-comedogenic. It is also available in a variety of tones from light to dark.

Earlier in 2020, L’Oréal Paris named women’s rights activist Jaha Dukureh as its new international spokesperson. She is a UN Goodwill Ambassador for Africa, Nobel Peace Prize nominee, a Time’s 100 most influential person and the first honoree of L’Oréal Paris’ Women of Worth program to become a global ambassador for the company. The activist will star in the first Color Riche campaign later this year.

Longstanding mass market players have been influenced by the steady influx of indies that continue to shape the beauty sector when it comes to inclusivity. One of the newest indie brands on the scene comes from an expert with a long resume in beauty: AJ Crimson, a makeup artist and beauty expert who has worked with Fergie, Hilary Duff, Brandy, Raven-Symone, Angela Bassett and Missy Elliot to name just a few. He’s launched his own eponymous line, AJ Crimson Beauty, which is billed as a vegan-friendly luxury cosmetics brand designed to be inclusive. The range includes foundations, powders, lipsticks/glosses with prices ranging from $20 to $150.

According to Crimson, the line was born out of necessity.

“I wanted to create a product inclusive of women of all ethnicities, a product all women could find ownership in and believe in. So often, makeup has been designed with a one size fits all mentality, and with black women and women of color my cosmetic line contains shades for women of every ethnic background and skin tone,” he said.

Hair care is another beauty sector rife with a growing number of options for all textures and types. Black woman owned, clean luxury hair care brand Meraki just launched Quartz Conditioner.
According to the company, each Meraki product is activated with a gemstone, and this conditioner features clear quartz to “help provide balance mentally, emotionally and spiritually” for everyone.

Meraki Quartz Conditioner delivers deep nourishment to your strands along with the “elevated vibes of clear quartz crystals” and a fragrance of real gardenia flowers and lavender. With rich butters, precious oils and hair repair agents, this conditioner also offers high hydration levels. White willow bark balances the scalp while amla, ginseng, yerba mate and sage stimulate circulation, enhancing hair growth and strength, said the company.

Oyin Handmade’s The Juices Herbal Leave-in Hair Refreshers are hydrating, tea-based humectant tonics for all hair types that will refresh the scalp and encourage hair growth. This nutritious tonic keeps locks weightlessly moisturized without a trace of buildup. The products are particularly excellent for low porosity hair types. With a pH level of 3.5-4.5, a slightly acidic to help close and seal your hair’s cuticle layer. This weightless spray comes in three different scents: Greg Juice, Frank Juice and Juices and Berries. Greg Juice is an essential oil spray that has a light citrus/herbal scent. Frank Juice is enhanced with frankincense and myrrh. Juices and Berries is a fruity blend. Products are available online at www.oyinhandmade.com and at select Whole Food locations and beauty supply stores.

Created by beauty enthusiast Pam Trice, Tress Organix is a new all-natural product line that was designed to revitalize damaged hair strands transforming them into stronger, longer tresses. She stated, “While leave-ins are lightweight and can be left in the hair, deep conditioners promise long-lasting hair treatment and repair.”

The Tress Organix Moisturizing Bliss Deep Conditioner is ideal for deep conditioning. It contains coconut, avocado and olive oils, all of which serve to prevent breakage, improve hair elasticity and strength, and therefore aid styling. Tress Organix also recommends using a cream such as Smoothing Silk Cream with honey and hibiscus. The formula also contains provitamin B5, organic aloe leaf juice and dehydroacetic acid, among others components.

Almost every naturalista aspires to nail the perfect twist out, braid out or wash and go: defined, shiny, and moisturized. However, every naturalista knows humidity can thwart her efforts. To combat the heat and reduce frizz, the Afro Sheen Texture Setting Cream Gel and Slick Back Cream Styler provide long-lasting hold to keep your style in place and hydrated no matter what nature throws your way!

And, let’s not forget the rising beauty segment of Halal beauty. Mersi Cosmetics is entering the Halal cosmetics industry with the launch of its certified Halal nail polish line. Each product is inspired by and named after a wonder of nature. “Hillier” is a subtle pink Halal nail polish shade inspired by one of the pink bodies of water and largest island in the archipelago. “Northern Lights” is a dusky purple color, inspired by Aurora Borealis, an illuminating display in the sky.

The Halal nail polish line by Mersi features more than 20 shades made with a breathable formula. According to the brand, this formula allows water and oxygen to permeate through it, creating a healthier experience for nail polish users.


Retail Scene

Where are women buying their beauty products? Huggins notes that neither IRI nor Nielsen keeps a multicultural database, but according to a 2018 study conducted by Mintel, it breaks down to:

• 33% Mass stores;
• 28% Drug stores;
• 22% Beauty/supply stores; and
• 17% Prestige/specialty stores.

“The market today is omnichannel, so she will go from prestige to mass or from beauty store to prestige; back in the day that was not the case,” explained Huggins.

That strategy should include social media, too.

And while Facebook is the top social media site among Black women, Instagram, YouTube and Twitter are all used by a higher percentage of Black women than they are total US women, according to Huggins.

From Halal-certified formulations to hair care products designed specifically for Black consumers, it’s clear that the beauty industry is no longer tone deaf when it comes to calls for creating products for every skin tone and hair type.